Nashville Restaurants

The rest of the country may make fun of Southern cooking, with its fatback and chitlins, collard greens, and fried everything, but there is much more to Southern food than these tired stereotypes. You’ll find that Southern fare, in all its diversity, is a way of life here in Nashville. This is not to say that you can’t get good Italian, French, German, Japanese, Chinese, or even Thai — you can. However, as long as you’re below the Mason-Dixon line, you owe it to yourself to try a bit of country cookin’. Barbecue and fried catfish are two inexpensive staples well worth trying. If you enjoy good old-fashioned American food, try a “meat-and-three” restaurant, where you get your choice of three vegetables with your meal. However, to find out what Southern cooking is truly capable of, try someplace serving New Southern or New American cuisine. This is the equivalent of California cuisine, but made with traditional, and not-so-traditional, Southern ingredients.

Nashville is well represented by scores of popular chain restaurants, including a disproportionate number of upscale steakhouses: Morton’s of Chicago, 641 Church St. (tel. 615/259-4558); Fleming’s Prime Steakhouse and Wine Bar, 2525 West End Ave. (tel. 615/342-0131); Ruth’s Chris Steak House, 2100 West End Ave. (tel. 615/320-0163); and Stoney River Legendary Steaks, 3015 West End Ave. (tel. 615/340-9550).

However, I like to find worthy independent places to recommend. Happily, Nashville is bursting at the seams with them. In this section I’ve only been able to scratch the surface.

I have classified restaurants in the following categories (estimates do not include beer, wine, or tip): expensive, if a complete dinner would cost $30 or more; moderate, where you can expect to pay between $15 and $30 for a complete dinner; and inexpensive, where a complete dinner can be had for less than $15.

Best Tennessee-Based Eateries

All three of these homegrown Tennessee chains have multiple locations throughout the state and beyond.

Back Yard Burgers: Founded in Cleveland, Miss., in 1987, BYB is a fast-food chain specializing in gourmet-quality, home-style grilled burgers, spicy seasoned fries, and hand-dipped milkshakes. Today, it’s a publicly traded company, based in Memphis, with more than 200 locations nationwide, including several in Memphis and Nashville. My favorite drive-through indulgence: Savory chicken sandwich, topped with fresh tomatoes and lettuce, and an extra-thick chocolate milkshake. tel. 800/333-9566; www.backyardburgers.com.

Cracker Barrel Old Country Store: A sure bet on any road trip through Tennessee, Cracker Barrels are ubiquitous along interstates. You’ll recognize them by the rows of wooden rocking chairs on the brown buildings’ wide porches. The Lebanon, Tenn.-based restaurant chain is the real McCoy, serving hearty portions of consistently good, home-style food at breakfast, lunch, and dinner. Chock full of old farm equipment, kitchen gadgets, and other antiques, the eateries all have crackling stone fireplaces that are especially welcoming in cold winter weather. You can also browse for old-fashioned candy in the gift stores, and even rent audio books for your travels.

There are more than 570 restaurants in 41 states, including multiple locations in Memphis and Nashville. Best breakfast bet: Fried ham, biscuits and gravy, scrambled eggs, and Southern-style grits swimming in butter. tel. 800/333-9566; www.crackerbarrel.com.

J. Alexander’s: Based in Nashville, J. Alexander’s operates contemporary, full-service American restaurants in more than a dozen central U.S. states, with two locations in Nashville and one in Memphis. Unlike BYB and Cracker Barrel, J. Alexander’s has a relaxing yet upscale atmosphere and offers a full bar with wines available by the glass or bottle. Signature dishes: Baby-back ribs, prime beef, and cilantro shrimp. My choice: Rattlesnake pasta.

Downtown, The District, & 12th Avenue South

Inexpensive — In addition to the restaurants listed, you can get quick, inexpensive meals at the Nashville Farmers Market, 900 Eighth Ave. N. (tel. 615/880-2001), adjacent to the Bicentennial Capitol Mall State Park. It’s open from 9am to 6pm 7 days a week, year-round except winter, when it closes at 5pm.

Music Valley & East Nashville

Music Valley includes the Opryland Hotel and Opry Mills, both of which offer a plethora of eateries — food-court buffets to sit-down restaurants. While the airport area is mostly devoid of commendable places to grab more than a quick bite, the flourishing East Nashville neighborhood has excellent bars, bistros and cafes.

Music Row & The West End

If you’re planning to drive-and-dine in the West End, carry some cash for valet parking. Most restaurants offer the complimentary service, but tips are expected.

Cafes, Bakeries & Pastry Shops

When you just need a quick pick-me-up, a rich pastry, or some good rustic bread for a picnic, there are several good cafes, coffeehouses, and bakeries scattered around the city. Downtown, in the sunny lobby of the Country Music Hall of Fame and Museum, you can order cocktails or coffee with lunch at SoBro Grill, 222 5th Ave. S. (tel. 615/254-9060; www.sobrogrill.com). The stretch of 12th Avenue South is where you’ll find the funky Frothy Monkey, 2509 12th Ave. S. (tel. 615/292-1808; www.frothymonkeynashville.com), a bungalow with hardwood floors and a skylight, not to mention free wireless access. Portland Brew, 2605 12th Ave. S. (tel. 615/292-9004) and 1921 Eastland (tel. 615/262-9088; www.portlandbrewcoffee.com), is another locally owned spot whose owners were inspired by coffee shops they encountered in Oregon.

An African word meaning “village” was the inspiration for the name of the Kijiji Coffee House and Deli, 1207 Jefferson St. (tel. 615/321-0403; www.kijijicoffee.com), a popular hangout near Fisk University. Live jazz and poetry readings are held here and at a newly opened second location downtown, at 121 Second St. N. (tel. 615/734-3400).

Bongo Java, 2007 Belmont Blvd. (tel. 615/385-JAVA; www.bongojava.com), located near Belmont University, is located in an old house on a tree-lined street. It has good collegiate atmosphere, but parking during peak hours can pose a challenge. Nearby in the West End, where coffee shops and cafes are ubiquitous, two of my favorites are Grins (pronounced “greens”) Vegetarian Cafe, at 25th Ave. and Vanderbilt Place (tel. 615/322-8571); and Fido, 1812 21st Ave. S. (tel. 615/385-7959), an artsy former pet shop and musicians’ hangout that is one of the friendliest Wi-Fi spots in the neighborhood. You can link to both places through Bongo Java’s website, listed above.

Across the street from Fido you’ll find Provence Breads & Cafe, 1705 21st Ave. S. (tel. 615/386-0363; www.provencebreads.com), a European-style coffeehouse which bakes crusty French baguettes along with the most delectable tarts and cookies in town. Gourmet sandwiches and salads, along with brunch items, are on the extensive menu. Provence also has a stylish bistro in the downtown library, 601 Church St. (tel. 615/644-1150).

Sweet 16th — A Bakery, 311 N. 16th St. (tel. 615/226-8367; www.sweeth16th.com), is a charming bakery anchoring a trendy residential neighborhood in East Nashville. Heavenly aromas fill the cheerful, immaculate shop, which has a few window seats for those who like to savor their pastries over coffee. From fresh scones and iced eclairs to festive cookies and decadent brownies, this sweet spot has it all.

Out near the Nashville zoo you’ll find Aurora Bakery, 3725 Nolensville Rd. (tel. 615/837-1933). Grab sandwiches and picnic fare for the family while browsing one of Nashville’s most extensive selection of baked goods, including breads, pastries, cookies, and cakes. Ask for a free taste of the moist tres leches (milk) cake, a Mexican specialty.

Tea houses in Nashville include Loose Leaf Tea Bar (223 Donelson Pike; tel. 615/889-0044; www.teafortwoandmore.com); Tea Time Nashville (2814 12th Ave. S; tel. 615/497-7292; www.teatimenashville.com); and Savannah Tea Company (2206 8th Ave. S.; tel. 615/383-1832).

And, finally, Calypso, 2424 Elliston Place (tel. 615/321-3878) is an inexpensive chain with multiple locations that features Caribbean-inspired salads and sandwiches, including good vegetarian options such as Boca burgers.

Family-Friendly Restaurants

Elliston Place Soda Shop — Bring the kids by for a burger and a shake and tell them how their mom and dad or grandma and grandpa used to hang out in a place just like this one when they were love-struck teenagers.

The Old Spaghetti Factory — Kids love spaghetti and here, that’s all there is to it. Adults will enjoy the Victorian decor. And kids will also love the old trolley car in the middle of the dining room.

Rainforest Cafe — Entertaining for the whole family, this theme cafe offers basic American sandwiches and entrees with a faint tropical flair — served in a jungle atmosphere complete with roaring elephants, chest-thumping gorillas, and thunderous, simulated rainstorms.

Tired of Waiting?

The Pancake Pantry may be a breakfast-lover’s first choice, but the daunting lines can aggravate appetites as well as patience. Across the street, the brew pub Boscos and bakery Provence both do a delectable brunch. Next door, barflies looking for hangover relief flock to laid-back Jackson’s in the Village (1800 21st Ave. S. at Belcourt Ave. (tel. 615/385-9968), for Bloody Marys and fried eggs.

The Cheeses of Old Hickory

Madison County, Iowa, has its picturesque bridges, and Nashville’s Opryland has its unexpected, world-class cheese selections. The massive convention and resort hotel’s flagship, fine-dining restaurant, Old Hickory Steakhouse, offers a mouthwatering array of more than 100 pungent soft, semi-soft, and hard cheeses. Popular as a before- or after-meal course, the selections on the menu sound as tantalizing as they taste, given the rhapsodic descriptions listed . On a recent visit, we sampled the following, all of which we can highly recommend:

• Aged Gouda Cow (Holland) “Explosive, crunchy, caramelized”

• Montgomery Cheddar Cow (England) “Dry, crumbly, robust, long balanced finish”

• Pierre Robert Cow (France) “Decadent, buttery, silky smooth”

• Rogue River Blue Cow Milk Blue (Oregon) “Spicy, moist, soaked in pear brandy”

• Shropshire Blue Cow Milk Blue (England) “Fudgy, warm, tangy, delicious, sweet cream flavor”

• Wabash Cannonball Goat (Indiana) “Musky, tart, mineral, goaty”

5 Best Cheese Names

• Purple Haze Goat (California)

• Primadonna Cow (Switzerland)

• Gorgonzola Cremificato Cow (Italy)

• Brillat Savarin Cow (France)

• Roaring 40’s Cow Milk Blue (Australia)

Source: Old Hickory Steakhouse, Opryland