Aruba Restaurants

If you’re like lots of folks vacationing in Aruba, you’ll spend all day on the beach thinking about where to dine that night. The options are prodigious. Few places as small as Aruba can boast such a variety of quality restaurants. In fact, with the exception of the French islands and Puerto Rico, Aruba leaves most of the Caribbean in the dust.

This is due in large part to fierce competition. Most restaurateurs never stop thinking of new ways to bring you through their doors. Many add a personal touch, taking the time to chat and thank you for your visit. And most are loath to leave anyone behind, so there’s usually something for vegetarians, kids, and couples celebrating special occasions (how about a romantic private room or a table on the beach?). Because some form of entertainment has become almost de rigueur, expect to be serenaded by live bands, jazz saxophonists, or a pianist. Frequent culinary competitions spur chefs to experiment and hone their skills, constantly raising the quality bar. And over the past few years, ethnic spots have burgeoned: When you’re not feasting on steak, seafood, or Aruban specialties, you can try something Argentinean, French, Caribbean, Indonesian, Cuban, Italian, Belgian, Mexican, Japanese, Chinese, or Indian.

What to Wear? — Dress is almost always casual. At many places, dinner dress is elegant casual (sundresses for women, long pants for men). A couple of restaurants, such as LeDome, enforce a “no shorts” policy.

How Much to Tip? — Many, but not all, restaurants add a service charge, ranging from 10% to 15%, to your bill. The majority of this money is distributed among all restaurant employees, so your waiter will receive only a portion of this. If you feel your waiter or waitress has earned it, leave about 10% on the table. If no service charge is automatically added, tip 15% or 20% if the service was exceptional.

What About Reservations? — Reservations are universally appreciated. During the high season, or for large groups, they’re necessary at the most popular places. Your hotel concierge will be happy to make reservations for you.

Restaurant prices are a bit steep in Aruba, but with good reason. Almost nothing grows on the arid island, so most edibles, with the exception of some seafood, are imported. That gets to be expensive. Fruits and vegetables come primarily from the United States and Venezuela, but some make the trip from as far away as Europe. Beef is flown in from Argentina and the U.S. Portions are large, though, if that’s any consolation.

Most restaurants are a $6 to $10 taxi ride from your hotel, but many are within easy walking distance of the major resorts in the High-Rise area. If you have a car, call for explicit directions: Inadequate street signs and a cabdriver’s substandard navigation skills often lead to wrong turns and missed reservations. Another caveat: If you’re going into Oranjestad from the hotel areas, allow yourself some time to get there. Traffic into the capital is absurd at times, and parking can be hard to find.

It used to be tough to find a restaurant that was open for lunch on Sunday, but no more. Some — especially hotel restaurants — even do a lavish brunch, but double-check before you set out.

Food Fairs — The Bon Bini Festival is a folkloric, touristy show that features hokey and asynchronous dances performed by a handful of local amateur junior talents. A few arts and crafts booths and one or two trays of homemade, local food surround the makeshift bar. The show takes place year-round every Tuesday, from 6:30 to 8:30pm at Fort Zoutman in Oranjestad.

High-Rise Hotels/Palm Beach/Noord

Just inland from Palm Beach and the High-Rise hotels but virtually indistinguishable from the immediate resort area, the town of Noord is home to many popular restaurants.

Epicurean & Eclectic

The Aruba Gastronomic Association, or AGA, Salina Serca 39E, Noord (tel. 800/793-6028 in the U.S., or 297/586-1266 in Aruba; www.arubadining.com), a group of nearly 30 of the island’s restaurants — including such recommended spots as LeDome, The French Steakhouse, and Gasparito — offers a “Dine-Around” program with three options. For $109, you get coupons good for three dinners; $177 gets you five dinners; and for $245, you can have one dinner every day of the week. Children 4 to12 pay half price; it is not recommended for children under 4. The five-course “Wine-Around” dinner costs $85 per person and includes perfectly paired wines. The coupons are good at any of AGA’s member restaurants and never expire, so you can always turn in old coupons for current ones on your return trip. Each dinner includes an appetizer, main course, dessert, coffee or tea, and service charges. Lunch and dinner plans as well as custom plans are available, and $50 gift certificates can be purchased for only $45. Coupons can be purchased from AGA, or at any DePalm tour desk. You can also fill out the online fax order form at www.arubadining.com or www.aruba.com.

What’s Cookin’ in the ABC Islands?

Don’t go home without sampling the worthwhile local cuisine. Here’s some help with the menu:

Bananas hasa — Fried plantains served as a side dish in Curaçao.

Bitterballen — Deep fried balls of pureed meat, popular in Curaçao.

Empanadas — Similar to pastechis but smaller and made with cornmeal rather than flour.

Frickendel — Tiny deep-fried hotdogs popular in Curaçao.

Funchi — Cornmeal polenta.

Giambo — A thick gumbo made with fish filets, salted beef, okra, fresh basil (yerba di hole), and shrimp.

Keshi yena — Edam or Gouda cheese rinds stuffed with beef, chicken, fish, or shrimp, embellished with raisins, grated cheese, bread crumbs, olives, capers, and spices; created by frugal Dutch colonists who had to stretch their provisions to last until the next ship arrived, this recipe ensured that nothing would be wasted.

Kesio — Eggy caramel custard with caramel sauce.

Pan bati — A thick, sweet, corn bread-like pancake cut in thin wedges and served as a side.

Pastechi — Crescent-shaped, deep-fried turnovers filled with spicy meat, shrimp, fish, or cheese; popular for breakfast and as a snack.

Ponche crema — Creamy eggnoglike drink laced with rum and flavored with nutmeg.

Pudin di coco — Coconut pudding made with rum and served with lime sauce.

Salsa creollo — Red, sweet creole sauce made of tomatoes, onions, and peppers and served with fish.

Sopinan — Soups made with salt pork or beef, whole fish, shellfish, greens, potatoes, onions, tomatoes, garlic, peppers, and spices, more common in Curaçao.

Stoba — Hearty stew made with chicken, beef, goat, conch, or fish.